Sunday, December 31, 2023
2023
Tuesday, August 15, 2023
Tokyo --> Tallinn 22.-23.07
Kuigi ema ei tahtnud nii palju sussi, kui mina, siis lõunaks õnnestus ikkagi reisi viimane suss kavva võtta. Proovisin ta erinevatesse loomakohvikutesse kutsuda aga see ei õnnestunud. Tellimuse tõi kohale väike sushi rong😁
Lennujaamades on tavaliselt päris krõbedad hinnad aga õhtusöögi saime täiesti samas hinnaklassis, mis Tokyos (ca 24 euri kahele koos jookidega). Võrdluseks, kui järgmisel hommikul Helsinkis võtsime hommikuks kumbki ühe võiku, kahepeale ühe magusa saia, kohvi ja tee ja maksma läks 40 eurot. Võikud, sai ja jook.
Erinevalt Tallinnast ei pidanud turvakontrollis käsipagasist midagi välja võtma. Turvakontroll läks üllatavalt kiiresti. Ümberistumisel Helsinkis, erinevalt Tallinnast ei võetud veepudeleid ära (meie viskasime kohusetundlikult lennu peal antud pudelid ära). Erinevalt Tallinnast võis Helsinkis olla vedelikku 2 liitrit.
Lend möödus nii nagu 13 tunnine lend ikka. Seekord saime kahekesi laiutada. See lendamise juures üks parimaid hetki, kui "pardaleminek on lõpetatud" ja sinu kõrval jääb koht tühjaks.
Ümmarguselt sõitsime ühistranspordiga ca 2600km + kõik linnasisesed sõidud. Japan Rail Pass tasus ennast ära, Suicaga maksime ca 50-60 eurot lisaks. Jah, Jaapanis ja eriti Tokyos on hea ühistranspordi võrgustik ja sellega aja kokkuhoid aga edaspidi jään võimalusel ikkagi ise sõitmise ja rendikate juurde. Esimene Aasia külastus tehtud💓 Tänan kaasa elamast
There was a man who invited us to eat. When asked where we are from, we of course answered Estonia, and immediately he greeted us with "Tere." At that moment, I was so surprised I didn't even ask where he had learnt it. I totally understand that anyone can learn a greeting in all the languages of the world but we were amazed how swiftly he connected the country to the correct word.
Since we didn't have any particular plans, and we had just enough money on our Suica to get to the airport without having to top up the card, so we took the familiar Yamanote (JR) line and re-visited Takeshita Dori, which we visited on the second day.
Although my mother didn't want sushi as much as I did, we still had sushi for the last day in Japan. I tried to invite him to different animal cafes, but it didn't work. Our order was delivered by a small sushi train😁
Before reaching the accommodation, we found a wholesale shop. So far we had only visited 7-Elevens and Family Marts. Ohh, so many things and as we had noticed before, everything except the fruit is at a great price.
And then it was time to fetch our luggage from the accommodation and head towards the airport. As usual, I compiled a route on maps, and according to it, one train was supposed to take us to Terminal 3 of Haneda Airport, although the name of the line changed twice during the ride. Brilliant. 700 yen in total. The first line change passed, the second as well, and suddenly we were on our way to the wrong stop. Well, we got off the train and took another to the previous stop. Then we changed onto a new train and this time we arrived at the airport without a problem.
Airport food is usually quite expensive, but our dinner was in the same price range as in Tokyo (approx. 24 euros for two, including drinks). For comparison, the next morning in Helsinki, we each had a sandwich, we shared a bun, one tea and one coffee and that cost 40 euros. Two sandwiches, a bun, and two hot drinks.
Unlike in Tallinn, we didn't have to take anything out of our hand luggage at the security check, which went surprisingly quickly. During the transfer in Helsinki, unlike in Tallinn, no one had to get rid of their water bottles (we dutifully threw away the bottles given to us on the flight). Unlike Tallinn, you could have 2 litres of liquid in Helsinki.
The flight passed just like any 13-hour flight. This time we had three seats for ourselves. One of the best moments of flying is when you hear "boarding complete" and the seat next to you is empty.
We rode roughly 2600 km by public transport + all the rides within cities. The Japan Rail Pass paid itself off, but just. Additionally, we paid approximately 50-60 euros to top up our Suicas. Yes, there is a good public transport network in Japan, especially in Tokyo, and it saves time, but in the future, whenever possible, I will drive myself. My first visit to Asia is done💓 Thank you for reading.
Monday, August 14, 2023
Kyoto -->Tokyo 21.07
Kinkaku-ji |
Selleks, et kell 6 algavale palvusele jõuda, tõusime poole kuuest. Samas oleks võinud veel varem ärgata, sest olime viimased, kes kohale jõudsid.
Ninna-ji templis ööbijatel on võimalus jälgida munkade hommikupalvust, mille loomulikult ära kasutasime. Kahju oli ainult sellest, et jaapani keelest aru ei saanud. Pärast palvust seletas üks munkadest midagi päris pikalt aga nagu öeldud, kahjuks ei mõistnud.
Ninna-ji |
Hommikusöök oli tagasihoidlikum kui õhtu ja kuigi ma maitsesin kohusetundlikult kõik ära, siis peale riisi ei olnud midagi ahvatlevat. Pakkisime jälle asjad kohvrisse ja jätsime need alla pakihoidu. Põnev, et keegi ei rääkinud inglise keelt, erinevalt eelmisest õhtust, kui templisse saabusime. Sain ainult aru, et kell 11 pidime tagasi olema. Kuna meil oli 12ks Shinkanseni istekohtade bronn, siis täiesti piisav aeg.
Esimest korda suutsin vale bussi peale istuda. No peatusest läksid mõlemad õigesse suunda aga buss, mille peal meie olime, suundus enne meie sihtkohta linna keskuse poole ja pidime veidi rohkem jalutama. Kokkuvõttes ei olnudki vahet aga ikkagi.
Kinkaku-ji ehk Kuldne paviljon on tempel, mis ilmestab vist enamikku reisibüroode reklaampilte. Vähemalt selleks hommikuks saime soovitud päikese ja kuldlehtedega kaunistatud hoone säras kogu võimsuses. Kinkaku rajati juba 14. (ja uuesti 15ndal) sajandil aga praegune hoone pärineb 1955. aastast. Ei, sõda Kyoto kultuuri ei hävitanud, selleks oli üks 21-aastane munk, kes otsustas 1950ndal aastal templi maha põletada.
Templi kõik kolm korrust on ehitatud erinevas stiilis, alt vastavalt Heiani periood (794-1185), samuraid ja zen budism. Kaks ülemist korrust on kaetud kuldlehega ning algupäraselt seda selles mahus ei olnud. Aga saime oma ilusa ilma fotosessiooni tehtud. Emale meeldis see tempel külastatutest enim.
Templil on loomulikult aed, kus oli samuti võimalus (noh, tagasi suunas ei lubatud, seega pigem kohtustus) edasi liikuda. Esmakordselt märkasime kavalat õnnemängu, kus inimesed proovisid visata münti nendest paar meetri kaugusel olevasse anumasse (eks jälle tabamise korral on võimalus soovi täitumisele). Anuma ümber loomulikult terve varandus.
Seejärel oligi aeg uuesti bussile astuda, Ninna-ji templist läbi ja kohvrid kaasa, ja teisele bussile, mis viis meid mugavalt Kyoto jaama välja. Sain jaamas meie istekohtade broneeringu ka ära muuta, et ei peaks kohvritega jõunumbreid näitama. Aga rongis selgus, et oleksime pidanud oma kohvrid teise kohta jätma ja eestlastena ei ole sellist usaldust. Seega ühendasime oma jõud ja suutsime sõidu ajaks mõlemad kohvrid peakohale tõsta. Sõit ise jälle natuke üle kahe tunni, kuni jõudsime tagasi Tokyosse. Tee äärde jäi lõputult riisipõlde.
Viimaseks öömajaks olin valinud Sotetsu Fresa Inn Ginza-Nanachome, mis jäi Shimbashi jaamast ca 500 meetri kaugusele. Kärutasime kohvrid majutusse, registreerisime end ära, korjasime hotelli poolt pakutud tasuta nänni ja astusime lifti.
Meie tuba paiknes 6ndal korrusel, seega vajutasin kuuenda korruse nuppu. Uksed sulgusid, lift liikus 8ndale korrusele ja hakkas siis uuesti alla liikuma. Olime väikeses segaduses. Proovisin uuesti meie korrust, mille peale lift viis meid jälle mitu korrust ülespoole ja siis alla tagasi. Hämming kasvas. Kui järgmine inimene lifti astus selgus, et enda korruse valimiseks pidime kõigepealt toa kaardi registreerima. Loogiline ju.
Enne õhtusööki tegime väikese tutvuse poodidega. Ka 1100 euro eest on võimalik prille saada. Aga asusime ka rikkurite linnaosas.
Siis fotosessioon poe ees ja sees. Enne tegime kindlaks, kus kohviku sissepääs on. Uksel ongi silt, et ilma broneeringuta sisse ja ei saa ja selle saab teha ainult netis. Ma tean, et mul ei ole selle nänniga midagi teha aga vaadata on ikka põnev.
Kuni kl 7 tuli meie broneeringu aeg ja meid lubati oma kohtadele. Hmm. Interjöör oli timm aga midagi jäi puudu. Toidu tellimiseks oli tahvel ja taimer, mis luges allesjäänud minuteid (see ei olnud eriti mugav). Olin menüüga eelnevalt tutvunud ja võtsime nii eel- kui põhiroa ning magustoidud. Ja (alkovabad) kokteilid. Ma ei ütleks, et mingi eriline maitsenauding, pigem selline tavapärane. Aga välimus oli lahe. Kui võimalus, tasub kindlasti külastamist.
Kohviku ja poe juurde jääb ka teemakohane metroojaama sissepääs.
Then we had some alone time in the temple's garden. We found a cicada, which almost gave me a heart attack when I touched it, pretending to be dead (or perhaps sunbathing).
Breakfast was a tad bit more modest than dinner, and although I dutifully tasted everything, there was nothing appealing apart from the rice. We packed our suitcases again and left our bags in the luggage storage. It was interesting that no one spoke English, unlike the previous night when we arrived. I only understood that we had to be back at 11 o'clock. Since we had reserved Shinkansen seats for 12, it was entirely sufficient.
I then managed to get us on the wrong bus. Well, only two buses went from the stop (I didn't understand the number), but they both went in the same direction. However, the bus we were on headed towards the city centre before our destination and we had to walk a little more.
All three temple floors are built using different styles. The first storey follows the Heian period (794-1185), the middle samurai and the third represents Zen Buddhism. The two upper floors are gilded. We managed to have our photo session in the sunshine. My Mother loved this temple the most among the ones we visited.
Naturally, Kinkaku-ji temple has a garden, where we could look around. Something we hadn't noticed before was a tricky game of chance, where people tried to throw a coin into a container a few metres away from them (as usual, if you hit, there is a chance for your wish coming true). As guessed, there was a small fortune around the container.
Then it was time to once again catch a bus, fetch our luggage from Ninna-ji temple, and take yet another bus that conveniently took us to Kyoto Station. I was also able to change our seat reservation at the station so that we wouldn't have to show the power numbers with our suitcases. But on the train, it turned out that we should have left our suitcases in another car and as Estonians, we tend to be rather suspicious of others. So we combined our forces and managed to lift both suitcases to the rack above our heads. A little over two hours until we got back to Tokyo. There were endless rice fields along the road.
For our last accommodation, I had chosen Sotetsu Fresa Inn Ginza-Nanachome, which was about 500 metres from Shimbashi station. We wheeled our suitcases into the hotel, checked in, chose complimentary goodies offered by the hotel and got into the lift.
Our room was on the 6th floor, so I pressed the sixth-floor button. The doors closed, the lift moved to the 8th floor and then began to move down again. We were a little confused. I tried our floor again, after which the lift once again took us several floors up and then back down again. The confusion grew. When the next person entered the lift, it turned out that in order to choose our floor, we had to register the room card first. Of course.
Before dinner, we went window shopping. Apparently, in a rich man's world, you get glasses for 1100 euros. I am certain, they are much more expensive.
And then. And then the highlight of the trip (just kidding) was the HP cafe 😍 Grete once sent a reel on Insta about the recently opened Harry Potter cafe. I was aware of the theme park and couldn't get tickets for that, so that seemed intriguing. At first, I looked for the dates of the beginning of our trip and they were already booked, but then I realised that we will be in Tokyo again on the final evening and found a vacancy. Yes, my mother is indifferent about Potter, but HP was originally for my generation. Naturally, I was excited. We arrived a bit earlier and sat watching some kind of meeting.Needless to say, we had a photo session in front and inside the shop. First, we determined where the entrance to the cafe is. There is a sign on the door saying that you cannot enter without a reservation and it can only be done online. I know I don't have anything to do with the nicknacks sold there, but they are fun to look at.
Finally, at 7 p.m. we were directed to our seats. Hmm. The interior was fine, but for some reason, I had a bit higher expectations.
We were given tablets for ordering food and a timer that counted down the time remaining until we had to leave (it wasn't very convenient). I had familiarized myself with the menu in advance and we had different starters, main courses and desserts. And (non-alcoholic) cocktails. I wouldn't say that it's something spectacular. But the food looks cool. Definitely worth visiting if there.
Saturday, August 12, 2023
Kyoto 20.07
Hommikut alustasime jälle iitsi-biitsi ebamugava hommikusöögikogemusega. Tegelikultmeeldis Luck You Kyoto mulle väga, puhas (mis on minu jaoks üks üliolulisi komponente), abivalmid võõrustajad, kohe üle ukse basseinid, mida veel tahta. Ma olen lihtsalt söödik ja ei saa süüa, kui teised vaatavad.
Tenryu-ji |
Tenryu-ji tempel pärineb 14. sajandist ja on nagu enamik Jaapanist, Unesco maailmapärandi nimistus. Tempel erineb enamik zen budistlikest templitest selle poolest, et peahoone on rajatud ida-lääne suunas. Aeda sisenedes avanes vaade suurele lootose alale.
Templil on ülimõnus, väikese tiigiga aed. Käisime sokkides läbi niipalju ruume, kui lubati. V.a. esimene templi külastus, olid sokid iga päev kotis kaasas.
Tiigi ääres istuda oli lausa idülliline. Päike pani ümbritsevad puud särama ja meid ümbritses rahu. Kuni saabusid itaallased.
Jalutasime edasi templi taha jäävas kaunis aias kuni jõudsime tagumise väljapääsuni, kust viis tee Arashiyama bambusmetsa 😍 Saan täiesti aru, miks metsas on piiratud rada, kuhu inimesi lubatakse. Turiste küll oli aga jõudsime mõne vaiksema hetke ära oodata. Ja bambus on võrratult võimas. Need võivad kasvada kuni 45 meetri kõrguseks ja nad lihtsalt kulgevad ja kulgevad.
Bambusalleelt ära liikudes avastasin, et minu e-sim oli tühjaks saamas. Kuna järgmisesse kohta liikusime nagunii jalgsi, ei olnud sellest otseselt probleemi. Google offline kaart (eeldusel, et vajalik piirkond on eelnevalt alla laetud) töötab ka levi puudumisel ideaalselt. E-simist natukese aja pärast.
Igatahes. Järgmine lühike jalutuskäik viis meid Arashiyama ahvipargi väravateni. 3.46 euro (550 yen) eest on võimalik ette võtta väike jalutuskäik 160m kõrgusele (noh, päris järsk tõus aga see on ilusti puude varjus), kust avaneb suurepärane vaade Kyototle, aga mis tähtsam, elavad jaapani makaagid 😍 Nad nagu naudivad elu. Inimesed peavad minema puuri, et neid toita.
Veetsin vist terve tunni lihtsalt ringi vaadates ja ahve jälitades. Ema nautis päikesevarju.
Sain üleval olles korraks levi ja sain Googles järgmise ühistranspordi marsruudi ära koostada. Seega jälgisin, et kordagi kaardil "tagasi" nuppu ei vajutaks.
Leidsime vajaliku rongipeatuse ja umbes 50-minutiline sõit viis meid tagasi Kyoto idaossa. Enne päeva viimast külastust tegelesin e-simiga. Istusime Starbucksi wifis, proovisin osta uue kaardi, mida kokkuvõttes ei saanudki toimima. Kirjutasin kirja klienditeenindusele, kes lubas vastata järgimise 30 tunni jooksul. Siis tekkis mõtte osta sim ema telefoni ja see lõpuks toimis. Ugh. E-sim on kindlasti mugav võimalus ja kasutan ilmselt järgmine kord uuesti kui on vaja ühistranspordiga võõras riigis ringi liikuda. Enamasti sõidan rendiautoga ja auto marsruudi koostab maps ilma netita.
Lõunasöögi kohta ei olegi millegipärast üles märkinud. Kolm käiku ja päris maitsev. Teenindajad viisid nõud ära momendil, kui sellega lõpetasin. Nii kiiret teenindust ei ole ma kusagil kohanud.
Päeva viimaseks külastuseks jäid Kodaiji ja Entoku-in budistlikud templid. Enne Kodai-ji templini jõudmist võtsid meid rajalt maha kolm intervjueerijat. Küsisid loomulikult, kas sobib. Küsimused meie reisi ja kogemuste kohta. Kõndisime lühikese tänavavahe Kodai-ji sissepääsuni ja olid uued küsitlejad. Selline tunne, et inglise keele õpetajad tõid oma kolm õpilast eksamile😊
Kodai-ji |
Entoku-in |
Sellega olid päevased külastused tehtud ning poole viieks jõudsime tagasi Luck You Kyotosse, et võtta oma kohvrid ja sõita uude öömajja Omuro Kaikanisse, mis asub Ninna-ji templis. Ema rääkis mingi aeg enne väljasõitu, et tema Jaapanis käinud sõber ööbis templis. Veidike uurimist viis Ninna-ji templini, mis võõrustab külalisi.
Elamiseks saime kõige suurema ruumi, kus Jaapanis ööbinud olime. Futon matid. Tualett ja pesuruumid jagatud aga mind see ei sega. Ööbimispakett oli võimalik võtta koos õhtusöögiga ning loomulikult kasutasime võimaluse ära.
Õhtusöögi saali minnes istusid mungad juba laua ääres. Iga tuba sai oma nummerdatud laua. Ja õhtusöök oli kõige põnevam, kunagi maitsnud olen. Mitte tingimata kõige parem aga vaieldamatult kõige põnevam. Kõike oli vähe aga ülipalju. Me ei osanud kõike süüa, piilusime, mida kõrvallaudades tehti. Eks oli jälle tofut aga piisavalt häid maitseid, et sai kõhu korralikult täis. Maitsesin absoluutselt kõike, mis ees oli ja oleksin ära ka söönud, kui harjumuspärasem maitse oleks olnud.
Õhtul tegime tillukese jalutuskäigu templi aias. Kuulsime munkade chantimist. Pesuruumis avastasime, et seal on ka kuumaveeallikat imiteeriv bassein. Täiesti põnev.
As previously, we began our morning with the itsy-bitsy uncomfortable breakfast experience. I actually really enjoyed staying at Luck You Kyoto. It was spotless, (which is crucial for me), had helpful hosts, and Sento right across the street, what more could you want. It's just that I love to eat and I can't do that if anyone is watching.
Tenryu-ji |
Anyway. After breakfast, headed out to a nearby (for me) train station to take the trip to the western part of Kyoto, Tenryu-ji temple. The Japanese are polite. In public transport, they tend to stay quiet, or, at the very least, speak in a soft voice. That morning, however, we got into a car with five (maybe six) Italians. Guess how quiet the car was😁 Despite the silence around them, they seemed to want to speak louder than the person standing next to them. We were actually holding our breath, guessing where they would exit the train. Not surprisingly, they got off at the same stop as us. Then we held our breath to see if they were also headed in the same direction. For a while, they did, but fortunately, we got rid of them.
Sitting by the pond was thoroughly idyllic. The sun made the surrounding trees glow and we were surrounded by serene peace. Until the Italians arrived.
We continued in the beautiful back garden until we reached the back exit, where a path led to the Arashiyama bamboo grove😍 I entirely understand why there is a limited path in the grove for people. There were loads of tourists, but we managed to wait for a few quieter moments. And bamboo is incredibly powerful. They can grow up to 45 metres tall, going on and on and on.
As we were leaving Bamboo Grove, I discovered that my e-sim was running low. Since we were moving to the next place on foot anyway, it wasn't really a problem. Google offline map (provided that the desired area is downloaded in advance) works perfectly even in the absence of coverage. More about the e-sim in a while.
Anyway. The next short walk took us to the gates of Arashiyama Monkey Park. For 3.46 euro (550 yen) climb 160m (well, quite a steep climb, but it's beautifully shaded by trees), to enjoy great views of Kyoto, but most importantly, Japanese snow monkeys live there 😍 The monkeys seem to enjoy life. For a change, people have to go to the cage to feed them.
I must have spent an hour just looking around and chasing monkeys. Mum enjoyed the shade.
While we were up the mountain, I got some coverage and was able to compile the route to our next stop. So I made sure not to press the "back" button. We found the train stop we needed and about a 50-minute ride took us back to the east side of Kyoto. Before our last visit of the day, I dealt with the e-sim. We sat, using the Starbucks wifi, while I tried to buy a new card, which ended up not working. I wrote a letter to customer service, who promised to respond within 30 hours. Then I got the idea to buy an e-sim for my mother's phone and that finally worked. Ugh. E-sim is definitely a convenient option and I will probably use it again the next time I need to use public transport in a foreign country. Most of the time, I drive a rental car, and offline maps don't require internet.
For some reason, I haven't saved where we had lunch. I had three courses and they were quite tasty. The servers took the dishes away the moment I finished with a course. I have never met such fast service anywhere.
Kodai-ji |
Kodai-ji was probably the most modest temple we visited while in Japan. The 17th-century temple is special because founded by a nun. Although the temple may not have been particularly outstanding, the surroundings were beautiful and there was a bamboo garden😍
Entoku-in |
That was the end of the day's visits and by 4:30 p.m. we arrived back at Luck You Kyoto to collect our bags and take the bus to our new accommodation, Omuro Kaikan, located at Ninna-ji Temple.
Our room was the biggest we got to live in in Japan. Again, we had futon mats. They have shared toilets and washrooms. As it was possible to have dinner included in the stay, we naturally took the opportunity.
Going to the dining hall, the monks were already sitting at the table. Each room got its own assigned table. And the dinner itself was the most exciting I have ever tasted. Not necessarily the best, but definitely the most exciting. We were served little of everything. As we weren't aware of how to eat everything, we observed the other diners. Fortunately, they had plenty of delicious food, on top of tofu and other weird things. Naturally, I tasted absolutely everything and I would have eaten the whole lot, if things would have been tastier.
In the evening we took a little walk in the temple's garden. We heard the monks chanting. In the washroom, we discovered that they also had a tiny sento-pool. Such an exciting experience.