Saturday, July 31, 2021

Paris 18.07

Monet "Impression, Sunrise"

18.07 Päike lõõmas juba taevas, kui me välja suundusime. Alustuseks lühike bussisõit ja kella kümneks ootasime Monet muuseumi ukse taga. Ikka järjekorras. Ja ka seal olid eelmüügi ning letimüügi piletijärjekorrad. 

Musée Marmottan-Monet muuseumis olevale Claude Monet kogule panid aluse Jules ja hiljem tema poeg Paul Marmottan. 1934. aastast tegutseb hoones Académie des Beaux-Arts juhtimisel muuseum, mille põhirõhuks ongi Monet looming. Lisaks on septembrini üleval taani kunstniku, Krøyer'i näitus. 

Marmottan-Monet muuseumis on üle 300 Claude Monet teose, nende hulgas "Impression, Sunrise", impressionismi alusepanija. Monet looming on minu cup of tea😊 Seal olid fragmendid Musée de l'Orangerie's eksponeeritud vesiroosidest. Päikesetõus. Loodus. Hingele pai.

Laupäeviti ja pühapäeviti kl 10-16 ja esmaspäeviti kl 11-17 on avatud Pariisi kirbukas. Aadressiks on küll märgitud 99 All. des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen aga tegelik turg on tunduvalt laialiulatuvam. 

Kohale sõitsime bussi ja metrooga ning sõit lõppes Garibaldi peatuses. Metroo peatusest maa peale tulles tervitas meid juba mitme tänava pikkune turg. Pakuti kõike, mida ette kujutada. Korraks mõtlesin, et olen millestki valesti aru saanud aga see oligi turupäev. Lühikese jalutuskäigu pärast jõudsime juba kirbuturu algusesse. 

Kirbukas oli täpselt nii lahe, kui ette võiks kujutada. Oleksin seal hea meelega terve päeva veetnud. Tänavate viisi vanakraami ja nipsasju. Edasi nn tavaline turukaup. Riided, jalatsid, asjad, elektroonika, *miks peaks keegi ostma roostetanud tööriistu?* Suurbritannias ja Iirimaal on kirbukad ja taaskasutuspoed kohad, milles leiduvate raamatutega täitub tavaliselt minu pagas. 

Avasime oma krepi-skoori singi-juustu pontsaka pannukaga ning nautisime seda tänavakivil istudes😁

Pére Lachaise

Kui juba ühistranspordi piletit omada, siis on vaja sõita. Olingi päevad selliselt üles ehitanud, et pärast pileti aktiveerimist saame kaugemates piirkondades ringi liikuda. 

Oscar Wilde
Edasi ootas meid 1804. aastal rajatud Père Lachaise kalmistu. Suurbritannias ja Iirmaal maetakse tavaliselt lahkunud maasse, maa peale jääavad kaunid kelti ristid. Barcelonas kohtasime urnikalmistut, mida mina ei olnud varem näinud. 

Père Lachaise on nagu linn linnas. Kalmud on nagu majad ning nende vahel kulgevad sõidu- või jalakäijate teed. Surnuaeda külastab aastas ca 3.5 miljonit turisti, olles kõige külastatum surnuaed maailmas. Sinna on maetud näiteks Edit Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Frederic Chopin ja Jim Morrison. Morrisoni haud oli ainuke, mida nägime, mis oli piirdeaiaga ääristatud. 

Rue Cremieux
Kalmistule sisenedes on seal kaart kalmude asukohaga, et neid oleks lihtsam leida. 

Päeva viimaseks peatuseks oli värviliste majade poolest tuntud Rue Cremieux. Algupäraselt 19. sajandi keskel töölistele ehitatud majad veetlevad oma värvide ja lilleküllusega turiste. Inimesi oli päris palju, kuumalaine mõjus täis võimsusel, seega jalutasime tänaval aga ei jäänud eraldi tänava tühjenemist lootma/ootama.

Eelmisel õhtul jäi Eiffeli ääres jalutuskäik tegemata, seega valisime kõigepealt Eiffeli vaatega õhtusöögikohaks Popescu Constantin restorani.

Mina võtsin lõhe koos ratatoulle'ga. Magustoiduks magusa mix rohelise teega. Magustoidus pidin kahjuks pettuma. Šokolaadi kreem oli pigem kuiv, tagurpidi õunakoogiga saan sama hästi hakkama ja väike, mitte väga eriline makroon. Lõhe ja ratatoulle olid head.

Päeva saatsime õhtusse Eiffeli juures olevas pargis. Ootasime ära päikeseloojangu ning Eiffeli tuledesse mattumise. Ohh, need tüütud "wine? beer?" pakkujad.

Marmottan-Monet Museum

18th July The sun was already blazing when we headed out. We started with a short bus ride. At 10am we were queueing for Musée Marmottan-Monet. There were seprate queues for pre-sale and counter ticket buyers.

The Claude Monet collection at the Musée Marmottan-Monet was founded by Jules and later by his son Paul Marmottan. Since 1934, the Académie des Beaux-Arts has housed a museum there, with the main focus on Monet's work. In addition, there is an exhibition by Danish artist Krøyer until September.

The Marmottan-Monet Museum houses more than 300 works by Claude Monet, including "Impression, Sunrise", inspiring the name of Impressionism. Monet's creation is my cup of tea😊 There were fragments of water lilies of the paitings on display at the Musée de l'Orangerie. Sunrise. Nature. Made my soul purr. 

The Parisian flea market is open on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 am to 4 pm and on Mondays from 11 am to 5 pm. The address in Google Maps is 99 All. des Rosiers, 93400 Saint-Ouen, however, the actual market is much wider. 

We took a bus and a subway to the Garibaldi. Exiting the metro stop, we were already greeted by a market that was several streets long. People sold everything you could think of. For a moment I thought I had misunderstood something, Sunday was also a market day. After a short walk we reached the beginning of the flea market area. 

The flea market was just as cool as I had imagined. I would have liked to have spent the whole day there. Streets full of old things and trinkets. Clothes, shoes, things, electronics, *why would anyone buy rusty tools?* When I travel to the UK or Ireland, flea markets and second hand shops are my favourite places to find cheap books to fill my luggage. 

We opened our crepe score with a ham-cheese crepe and enjoyed it sitting on the pavement😁

Pére Lachaise

If you have a public transport ticket, it is wise to use it. I had planned our days so that we would visit the more distant places on the days we had activated the tickets. The Père Lachaise Cemetery, built in 1804, was our next destination. In Britain and Ireland, the deceased are usually buried in the ground, whil beautiful Celtic crosses indicate their final resting place. In Barcelona, ​​ we visited an urn cemetery, which I had never seen before. 

Père Lachaise is like a city in a city. The tombs are as tiny houses and there are driveways or pedestrian paths between them. The cemetery is visited by about 3.5 million tourists a year, being the most visited cemetery in the world. For example, Edit Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Frederic Chopin and Jim Morrison were buried there. Morrison's tomb was the only one we saw that was bordered with a fence. When entering the cemetery, there is a map with the location of the tombs to make them easier to find.

Rue Cremieux

The last stop of the day was Rue Cremieux, known for its colorful houses. Originally built for workers in the middle of the 19th century, the houses attract tourists with their colours and abundance of flowers. There were quite a lot of people, the heat wave was full on, so we walked down the street but did not hope / wait for the street to empty.

View from Popsecu Constantin

During the previous night we didn't spend our evening near the Eiffel. So for dinner, we chose the Popescu Constantin restaurant with a view of the tower.  

I odrered salmon with ratatoulle. For dessert, I chose a mix of desserts and green tea. Unfortunately, I was disappointed with the dessert. The chocolate mousse was rather dry, I can make apple tarte tarin just as well at home. And a tiny, not that good  macaron. The salmon and ratatoule were good though. 

We spent the evening in the park near the Eiffel. Ohh, those annoying "Wine? Beer?" vendors. 

Paris 17.07

Versailles
Laupäev algas varajase äratuse ja hommikusöögiga. Tavaliselt käin hommikuti jalutamas ja tühjasid tänavaid nautimas. Meie tunnine ajavahe oleks ka sellele kaasa aidanud. Aga selle aastaga olen hakanud kauem magama. Lisaks uue koha esimesed poolmagamata ööd.

Mainisin juba, et jäin Les Jardins d'Eiffel'i asukohaga väga rahule. Lisaks Eiffelile asub väga lähedal bussi- ja paarisaja meetri kaugusel metroopeatus. Laupäeval aktiviseerisimegi esimest korda oma viiepäevase ühistranspordi piletid ning suundusime esmalt metroo ja seejärel bussiga ca tunniajase sõidu kaugusel asuvasse Versailles lossi.

Versailles juurde jõudes oli järjekord juba moodustunud 😁 Igasuguste külastuste piletid tasub kindlasti eelmüügist osta. Olenevalt kohast ja kellaajast võib muidu juhtuda, et ooteaeg kulgeb paaritunniseks. 

Kuldne Versailles loss oli 17. sajandist kuni prantsuse revolutsioonini 1789a prantsuse kuningliku pere residents. Tänapäeval on see UNESCO maailmapärandi hallata. Alates väravatest, katuseharjade, seinte, lagede ja milleni veel domineeris kuld. 

Palee uksed avati kell 9 ning pärast koti kontrolli saime uudistama asuda. Nii nagu kindlustes/lossides ikka, kõike tuleb vaadata piirde tagant. Lossi tubadel on väga põnev ülesehitus, kus ühes tiivas on kõik toad omavahel koridoriga ühendatud. Kõikide ruumide seinad olid erinevat värvi, üldjuhul vältides kirjut või mustreid. Seintel loomulikult tervete kollektsioonide viisi maale. Nagu juba mainitud, ka seinad ja laed on kaunistatud, rohkemal või vähemal määral kuldsetes toonides. 

Versailles' ripub juba Louvres nähtud David'd "Napoleoni kroonimine / The Coronation of Napoleon" repro. Louvres istusime ja vaatlesime maali ning sellel paiknevate isikute ilmeid päris pikalt. Versailles märkas Aili ühe saatedaami roosat kleiti, mis originaalil on hall. 

Edasi kulgesime tohutus aias, kaasas kaart soovitusliku marsruudiga. Soovitusliku marsruudi pikkuseks on märgitud ca 2 tundi. Kusjuures läbisime poole aiast umbes tunniga, nii et aega kulub. Meil kiiret ei olnud, jalutasime ning imetlesime ümbrust. Laupäeviti ja pühapäeviti toimub aias purskkaevude show, lisaks taustal mängitavale barokkmuusikale.

Lõunapausi tegime La Flottille's. Seekord pitsa. Enne Napoli reisi õppisin Duolingo abiga itaalia keelt. Sellest on küll juba natuke aega aga üllatavalt on piisavalt palju meeles. Kusjuures itaalia ja prantsuse keeles on osad toidud sarnaste nimedega. Avastasin, et inglise keelset menüüd enamasti vaja ei läinudki. Ja lisaks, minu jaoks oli automaatne itaaliakeelne "tänan", või "tere", seega pidin iga kord hetke mõtlema, enne kui prantsuse keeles vastasin. 

Grand Trianon
Versailles' saab lisaks peapaleele külastada Louis XIV tellimusel enda privaatsuse tagamiseks ehitatud Suur Trianon'i ning eelkõige Marie Antoniette'ga seostatud Väike Trianon'i. 

Petit Trianon
Grand Trianon on nagu koopia suurest paleest. Kandsin sellel päeval kollast kleiti ning sattusin kollasesse tuppa. Kusjuures kohe järgmine oli roosa tuba, mis sobib suurepäraselt Ailile. Petit Trianon meenutab väga inglise mõisaid. Mõlemat hoonet ümbritsesid võrratud aiad. 

Sellega me suurema osa oma päevast sisustasimegi. Tagasiteel peaaeda tegime jäätisepausi, vahepeal oli soojaks läinud. Logisin ühe virtuaalse aarde ning suundusime vaikselt tagasi bussi ootama. Tagasitee bussiga oli kuum. Aknad olid lahti aga see oli ikka mega kuum. Arvestades, et pühapäeval saabus kuumalaine, siis edaspidi valisime võimalusel alati metroo. 

Õhtul tegime jalutuskäigu Seine kallastel. Imetlesime ekstravagantset, juugendstiilis laternatega Pont Aleksander III, mille olid valinud oma pulmapiltide tegemiseks vähemalt kaks noorpaari. Sild ehitati 19.sajandi lõpus Tsaar Aleksander III auks. 

Õhtusöögiks valisime I Pupi itaalia restorani, mul mereanni pasta ja jäätisega täidetud profitroolid. 

Versailles

17th July Saturday begun with an early wake-up and breakfast. I usually walk in the morning and enjoy the empty streets. Our time difference would have helped. But this year I've started sleeping longer due to my medications.  

I have already mentioned that I was very pleased with the location of Les Jardins d'Eiffel. In addition to the Eiffel, there is a bus stop very close by, and a few hundred meters away there is a metro stop. On Saturday, we finally activated our five-day public transport tickets for the first time and headed to the Palace of Versailles, which is about an hour's drive away, by metro and then by bus.

When we arrived in Versailles, the queue had already been formed 😁 Tickets for all kinds of visits are definitely worth buying in advance. Otherwise, depending on the place and time, the waiting time may be a few hours.

The golden Palace of Versailles was the residence of the French royal family from the 17th century until the French Revolution in 1789. Today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From the gates, the roof ridges, the walls, the ceilings and anything imaginable was decorated by gold. 

The doors of the palace were opened at 9 am and after having our bags checked we could start exploring. As usually in fortresses/castles, everything has to be seen from behind the border. The rooms of the palace have a very exciting structure, where in one wing of the palace, all the rooms are connected by a corridor. The walls of all the rooms had different colours, generally avoiding patterns. The walls were covered with collections of painting. As already mentioned, the walls and ceilings are also decorated in golden tones and are a sight on them own.

In Versailles, there is a replica of David's "The Coronation of Napoleon" that we had already seen in the Louvre. We had sat in the Louvre and looked at the painting and the expressions of the people on it for quite some time. In Versailles, Aili noticed the pink dress of one of the escorts, which is gray in the original.

We continued our exploration in the huge garden. I also took a map with a suggested route to guide us. The length of the recommended route is set to approx. 2 hours. And we went through half the garden in about an hour, so it takes time. We were not in a hurry, we walked and admired the surroundings. On Saturdays and Sundays, there is a fountain show in the garden, in addition to background Baroque music. 

We had a lunch break in La Flottille. Pizza this time. Before travelling to Naples, I learned Italian with the help of Duolingo. It's been a while, but surprisingly, I remember enough. In Italian and French, some foods have similar names. I discovered that most of the time there was no need for an English menu. For me, I automatically wanted to say "thank you," or "hello," in Italian, so I had to think for a moment every time I could answer in French.

Grand Trianon

In addition to the main palace, you can visit the GrandTrianon, commissioned by Louis XIV to ensure his privacy. And there is also the Petit Trianon associated with Marie Antoniette. 

The Grand Trianon is like a copy of the Grand Palace. I wore a yellow dress that day and ended up in a yellow room. The next room was pink, which was perfectly suited for Aili. Petit Trianon remind me of English mansions. Both buildings were surrounded by magnificent gardens.

Petit Trianon

And that's how we spent most of our day. On the way back to the main garden we took an ice cream break, it had become warm in the meanwhile. I logged a virtual cache and we headed back to wait for the bus. The drive back was hot. The windows were open but it was still extermely hot. Considering that a heat wave arrived on Sunday, from then on, we chose the subway whenever possible.

Pont Alexander III
In the evening we took a walk on the banks of the Seine. We admired the extravagant, Art Nouveau Pont Alexander III chosen by at least two young couples for their wedding photos. The bridge was built at the end of the 19th century in honor of Tsar Alexander III. 

For dinner, we chose I Pupi's Italian restaurant. I had seafood pasta and ice-cream filled  profiteroles.

Friday, July 30, 2021

Paris 16.07

16.07 Reedel ootas meid ees Orangerie impressionistide muuseum. Külastuse aeg pidi jälle olema eelnevalt broneeritud, meid oodati kell 10. 

Jalutuskäik majutusest kattus eelmise päeva omaga. Musée Orangerie koosneb põhimõtteliselt kolmest korrusest, millest kaks madalamal tasemel. Korrus maapinnast all on kohustuslik suveniiripood ning alumisel tasemel paiknevad ajutised ning püsinäitused. Maapinnal on kaks ruumi pühendatud Monet vesiroosidele.

Üldjuhul ma reisil olles muuseume eriti ei külasta. Pariisis leidsin aga päris mitu, mille vastu huvi tekkis. Jällegi, üldjuhul meeldib mulle realistlik kunst, kuid millegipärast on Monet ja mõned impressionistid lisaks suutnud hinge pugeda. Eesmärk on veel Van Gogh loomingut oma silmaga uudistada. Aga Musèe d'Orsay jääb järgmiseks korraks.

Hommik oli tegelikult päris jahe ja tuuline. Jõudsin juba mõelda, kas oleksin pidanud jaki kaasa võtma. Muuseumist väljudes ületasime Pariisi suurima, Concorde väljaku, imetlesime seal asuvat purskkaevu ning suundusime *minu puhul* hammaste plaginaga Jeff Koons'i hiigelsuuri tulpe pildistama. Kodus neid eelnevalt nähes tundusid lilled väga tuttavad. Selgus, et nägime Jeff Koonsi lõbusaid skluptuure The Broad muuseumis Los Angeles'es. 

Edasi viis rahulik jalutuskäik *mõne aarde logimise vahepõikega* mööda Champs-Élysées avenüüd Triumfikaareni. Kuna alles kaks päeva tagasi toimus mööda Champs-Élysées avenüüd pidulik paraad, siis sellega piirnevad jalakäijate tänavad olid osaliselt veel suletud. Uudistasime Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées kaubanduskeskuse hindu, kus kleitide hinnad algasid paarist tuhandest eurost.

Lõunasöögiks ostsime kõigepealt prantsuse pagari Pierre Hermé poest valiku makroone. Seejärel võtsime Pauli tänavakohvikust täidetud baugette ning kohvi ja nautisime seda tänaval inimeste möödumist jälgides. 

Teele jäid veel uhked Louis Vuittoni ja Diori keskused, kuhu sissepääsemine tähendas järjekorras seismist. Seejärel pärast Eiffeli torni ilmselt Pariisi kuulsuselt teine maamärk, 19. sajandist pärit Arc de Triomphe. Triumfikaar on temast ringselt lähtuvate tänavate keskuseks.

Louis Vuittoni sihtasutus

Edasi pikem jalutuskäik Louis Vuitton sihtasutuse juurde, mis küll hetkel on ajutiselt suletud aga hoonena on väga huvitav. Niipea kui olime Triumfikaarest möödas sai läbi ka Pariisi kesklinna melu. Kõigepealt sattusime pikale "meeste" tänavale. Loomulikult võivad naised samaväärselt mootoritest, motikatest ning tehnikast huviatud olla. Väga huvitav, kuidas sama teema poed on ühele tänavale koondunud.

Tagasiteel peatusime Trocadero väljakul, kust avaneb võimas vaade.. ikka Eiffeli tornile😁 Väljak oli täis nännimüüjaid. Mõni andis nõu poseerimiseks, mis siis, et kõigi pildid samasusugused tulevad. Aga minu oli küll nendelt poseerimist õppida. Minul on sellel sügisel kooli minevalt Martalt ka poseerimise kohapealt palju õppida.

Istusime ning nautisime hetkes olemist. Päike tuli lõpuks pilve tagant välja. Vormistasime kaks virtuaalset aaret. 

Õhtusööki nautisime Le Bosquet'is. Mina sõin confit pardi ja Aili lõhe. Magustoiduks *minul üleküpsetatud, Ailil ideaalne* molten lava kook. Le Bosquet oligi minu jaoks kokkuvõttes üks parimaid toidukohti Pariisis.

Inspired by Navotrolla? 

16th July On Friday, we began our day at Orangerie Impressionist Museum. The time of the visit had to be booked in advance again, we were expected at 10 am. 

The walk from the accommodation coincided with the previous day. The Musée Orangerie consists of three floors, two of which are below the ground. On the -1 floor is a mandatory souvenir shop. On the -2 level, there are temporary and permanent exhibitions of impressionist artists. On the ground, there are two rooms dedicated to Monet's water lilies. Rooms for meditation.

I usually don't visit museums when I'm travelling. In Paris, however, I found quite a few that piqued my interest. Again, I generally like realistic art, but for some reason I adore Monet. I would also like to see Van Gogh's work with my own eyes. But the Musèe d'Orsay will remain for next time.

The morning was actually rather chilly and windy. I had already wondered if I should have brought a jacket with me. Leaving the museum, we crossed the largest square in Paris, the Concorde Square, admired the grand fountain and headed *in my case shivering* to take pictures of Jeff Koons' huge Bouquet of Tulips. Looking at the photos at home before, the flowers seemed very familiar. It turned out we had actually seen Jeff Koons' fun sculptures at The Broad Museum in Los Angeles.

A peaceful walk *with a couple of caches in between* along the Champs-Élysées towards the Arc de Triomphe. As the Bastille's festive parade had taken place along the Champs-Élysées just two days prior, the pedestrian lanes were still partially closed. We stared at the prices of the Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées shopping centre, where the prices of dresses began from a few thousand euros.

For lunch, we bought a selection of macarons from the bakery of the French baker Pierre Hermé. We then bought a stuffed baguette and coffee from Paul's Street Cafe.

On our way, we saw the posh Louis Vuitton and Dior centres, both had queues behind the entrance. Then, after the Eiffel Tower, probably the second most famous landmark in Paris, the 19th century Arc de Triomphe.

Then we took a longer walk towards the Louis Vuitton Foundation, which is temporarily closed at the moment, but as a building, it is fascinating. As we passed the Arc de Triomphe, we entered a quieter part of Paris. First, we walked along "men's" street. Of course, women may be equally uninterested in engines, motorbikes and technology. 

Louis Vuitton Foundation

On the way back, we stopped at Trocadero Square, which offers a powerful view .. of the Eiffel Tower. The square was full of street vendors. Some even gave advice on posing. No matter that all the photos looked the same. However, I could have learned posing from them. I would also have a lot to learn about posing from Marta, who will begin school this autumn 😁

We sat and enjoyed being in the moment. The sun finally came out. And we logged two virtual caches.

We enjoyed dinner at Le Bosquet. I ate duck confit and Aili took the salmon. For dessert *I received an overcooked, but Ailil got an ideal * molten lava cake. Le Bosquet was one of the best places we ate at in Paris.