Napoli 22.07

Napoli

22.07 Hommikul tegin juba natuke pikema jalutuskäigu kuna tahtsin jõuda eelmisel päeval bussist nähtud vaateni. Istusime küll kahekordse bussi esimeses reas aga läbi kumera klaasi ei õnnestunud kuidagi normaalseid pilte teha.

Möödusin meie tavapärasest ujumiskohast, veidi kaugemale jäävast Mappatella rannast, mille olin esialgu ujumiskohaks mõelnud ning tasulisest Elena rannast ning jõudsin välja Via Francesco Petrarca tänavale. Hommikuga sain kokku umbes 10 kilomeetrit. Päike tõusis. Majad paiknevad mitmes tasapinnas. Ilm oli ilus. Mis veel tahta.

Aga päeva eriti midagi rohkemat ei mahtunudki. Pärast hommikusööki tegime läbi City Sightseeing Napoli A marsruudi, ehk tutvusime teise poole linnaga, mis osaliselt oli jalgsi juba läbitud.

Selle reisi viimane rannaskäik.

Lõunaks sõime seekord burgerit 😁 Käisime McDonalds`is. Ma igal aastal ikka ühe burgeri söön, see ei ole mingi eesmärk aga nii on juhtunud. Sellel aastal juhtub ilmselt rohkemgi. 

Õhtuks võtsime paki sushit, sest aega kuskile sööma minna enam ei olnud. Juba ootaski meid takso, mis viis lennujaama. Esimene lend viis Helsingisse, väike hilinemine ja kohal kell 1.30 öösel. Esimest korda elus saime veeta öö  lennujaamas. Tähendab, see oli juba pileteid ostes teada. Ei olnudki nii hull, kui arvasin. Kuigi ega eriti magada ka ei saanud. Lärm oli päris suur. Ööbijaid oli üllatavalt palju, igaüks hõivas mõne pingirea.

Mulle Napoli meeldib. See kaootiline seaduspärasus kuidagi sobib mulle. Caprile läheks kindlasti tagasi. Ei kujutaks ette suuremat osa eesti autojuhte sealses liikluses. Aga veel uus seiklus ootab ees juba kolmapäeval 😊

22nd July I took a slightly longer walk in the morning as I wanted to reach a spot I saw from the bus window the previous day. We were sitting in the first row of a double-decker but I just couldn`t take a decent photo through the curvy window. 

I passed our usual swimming spot. Mappatella beach was a little farther down the road, this is the beach I had originally thought for swimming when I planned our trip at home. The priced Elena beach is even farther. Finally I reached Via Francesco Petrarca. I managed to walk about 10 kilometres that morning. The sun was rising. The weather was lovely. What else to want.

We didn`t do much that day. We took the City Sightseeing Napoli A route after breakfast. That meant seeing the other direction that we took the day previously. But we had already managed to see most of the sights we shown. 

The last swimming of the trip. 

We had a burger for lunch 😁 We visited a McDonalds. I manage to eat at least one burger each year. Not a goal on its own. This year I imagine I will eat way more.

We bought sushi for dinner because we didn`t have time to eat out. And then our taxi was waiting for us to take us to the airport. The first flight took us to Helsinki. A slight delay and we were there 1.30am. For the first time in our lives we got to sleep in an airport. We knew that before though. It wasn`t as bad as I had thought. I didn`t get much sleep either, too noisy. But there were surprisingly many people at the airport at night. 

I like Napoli. That chaotic pattern fits me somehow. I would definitely visit Capri again. A new adventure is on its way in two days 😊

Napoli 21.07

21.07 Hommik viis mind jalutama. Nagu juba öeldud, meie majutus paikneb super asukohal. Kui rääkida kuskile jalutamisest. Aga mitte kui rääkida mürast.

Galeria Umberto I

Paar minutit ja leidsin ennast peaagu inimtühjast shopping galeriist - Galeria Umberto I. See on üks kahest kohast, mida eelmisel reisil meile Napolis põgusalt näidati. Galeria Umberto I ehitati 19. sajandi lõpus ning see sai oma nime tolleaegse kuninga järgi.

Galeria Umberto I

Hoone on neljast küljest avatud, kõrge, detalirohke. Päeval on see inimestega täidetud - suveniiripoed, toidukohad, butiigid. Öösel magab seal paar kodutut.

San Francesco di Paola

Galeria Umberto I vahetusse lähedusse jääb suur väljak nimega Piazza del Plebiscito, mida ääristavad ühelt poolt kuninglik palee ja teiselt San Francesco di Paola kirik, taamal paistis Vesuvius. 

Vesuvius

Molosiglio pargis mängisid noormehed jalgpalli. Nägin arvuliselt jooksjaid, kell 6 hommikul on seal tõesti ainuke normaalne temperatuur.

Kuna kõik see asus meie majutusele väga lähedal ja sinna jõudmine ei võtnud erilist aega, otsustasin niisama hispaania kvartali tänavatel ringi uidata. Kuidagi jõudsin välja tõusva tänavani, mis omakorda viis järgmise tõusva tänavani ja järsku olingi Vomero linnaosa serval ning mulle avanes vaade kõrgete majade katustele.

Vaade Vomerolt

Vaade Vomerolt

 Pärast hommikusööki võtsime ette selle reisi kõige pikema jalutuskäigu Cimitero Delle Fontanelle surnuaeda. Tee viis meid kesklinnast eemale. Nägime tavalisemaid kortermaju ning madalamaid elupaiku. Avatud ustest paistsid tillukesed elutoad nagu meiegi oma, lihtsalt astu välisuksest voodisse.

Barcelonas nägime urnidega seina sisse matmise surnuaeda.  

Cimitero Delle Fontanelle

Cimitero Delle Fontanelle

Cimitero Delle Fontanelle on jälle midagi teistsugust. See on rajatud suurde ja kõrgesse koopasse. Sinna toodi 17. sajandi katku ja 19. sajandi koolera ohvrid. 19. sajandi lõpus luud korrastati ja kategoriseeriti. Lingil klikkides on võimalik veel natuke juurde lugeda.

Cloister of Santa Chiara

Linna tagasi jõudes külastasime massiivset Püha Chiara kompleksi, mis asub Piazza del Gesu Nuovol Gesu Nuovo kiriku vastas. Kompleksi kuuluvad kirik, klooster, hauad ja arheoloogiline muuseum. Kloostri ja muuseumi külastamine maksab 6 eurot. Kloostri sisehoov on peamine turismimagnet, 18. sajandil lisati sinna rokokoo stiilis värvilised majoolika plaadid. Muuseumis oli väljakaevamine osast algupärasest kloostrist ning kirikuga seotud väljapanekud.

Selleks ajaks oli lõuna kätte jõudnud ja otsustasime süüa pitsa sinna samasse Gesu Nuovo väljakulule jäävas O' Munaciello Ristorante-Pizzerias. Esimest korda tundsime, et kelneritel oli täiesti ükskõik, kas me seal olime või mitte. 

Bussireis

Edasi ostsime piletid City Sightseeing Napoli punasele kahekordsele bussile ja asusime linnaga tutvuma natuke kaugemalt, kui jalgsi liikudes. Kõrvaklappidest sai kuulata läbitud marsruudi vaatamisväärsuste kohta. Kahju ainult, et bussiga liikudes pilte teha ei saa. 

Pärast seda väikene jahutus meie majutuses ning siis randa. 

Baba

Õhtusöögi sõime Pizzeria 'Ntretella`s. Merenni pasta ja magustoiduks üks purjus zuppa inglese (vist). Ahjaa, ühe baba sõime ka ära.

Galeria Umberto I

21st July. The morning took my walking again. As said, our loft is located in a superb place. When talking about the actual location not the closeness to the traffic.

Galeria Umberto I

Just a couple of minutes and I found myself in an almost empty Galeria Umberto I. This is on of the two places we were briefly shown the last time I visited Napoli with a tourist group in 2010. Galeria Umberto I was built between 1887-1891 and was named after the King of Italy at the time.

The Royal Palace

The gallery can be entered from all four sides. It is high, mighty and full of details. During a day it is packed with people. At night a few homeless people sleep there.

Piazza del Plebiscito is located a few hundred metres from Galeria Umberto I. It is bordered with Royal Palce of Naples and San Francesco di Paola,  Mt Vesuvius towering at the background.

A view from Vomero

A street in Napoli

As this all was very close to our loft and I still had plenty of time I decided to wander the streets of  Quarteri Spagnoli. Somehow I reached a street heading uphill and then another and then I was suddenly at the edge of Vomero and I got to view the roofs of the tall buildings.

After breakfast we took on the longest walk of this trip to Cimitero Delle Fontanelle. The road there took us away from the center. We got to see regular blocks of flats and lower buildings. Open doors let us peek into the tiny rooms that were somewhat like our loft - you can basically step in the bed from front door.

Cimitero Delle Fontanelle

Cimitero Delle Fontanelle

We saw an urn cemetery in Barcelona. Cimitero Delle Fontanelle was something I have never seen before. The cemetery is located in a huge cave, that is now open for visitors. The victims of the great plague in the 17th century and the victims of the cholera epidemic in the 19th centry are deposited there. I will not write about all of this, so if interested, click on the link.

Back in the centre, we visited the massive complex of Santa Chiara. The complex is located in the  Piazza del Gesu Nuovol opposite the church of Gesu Nuovo and consists of the Church of Santa Chiara, a monastery, tombs and an archeological museum. Visiting the Monastery and the museum costs 6 euros. The main tourist attraction is the colourful cloister that was transformed in 1742 by Domenico Antonio Vaccaro with the unique addition of majolica tiles in Rococò style. The museum houses information on the history of the church and archaeological findings. 

Bus tour

By that time it was noon and we decided to have a pizza at O' Munaciello Ristorante-Pizzeria on Piazza Gesu Nuovo. For the first time we felt the waiters didn`t care the slightest if we were there or not.


As my mum was tired of walking we bought tickets for a City Sightseeing Napoli tour. We were given the information about the sights we were shown thought the headphones. It`s a pity that being on a bus doesn`t allow you to take decent photos, if any.

After that a small cooling session and back to the beach.

We ate dinner at Pizzeria 'Ntretella. Seafood pasta and a drunk zuppa inglese (if I remember the name correctly).

Sorrento & Napoli Sotterranea 18.07

Sorrento

18.07 Hommikul seadsime sammud Molo Beverello sadamasse (meist vähem kui kilomeeter), et suunduda Napoli lahe teisel kaldal olevasse Sorrentosse. Piletijärjekord oli hommiku poole üheksa paiku täiesti olemas. Loobusime rongisõidust. Rongijaama oli peaagu kolm kilomeetrit 😁

Sorrento

Umbes kolmveerand tundi seilamist ja jõudsimegi kohale. Sorrento asub Amalfi rannikul. Umbes 16400 elanikku. Populaarne turistide sihtkoht, meelitades oma väikeste poodide, kohvikute, kaljuse ranniku ning sillerdava veega.  Seal on ujumisrand. Kivine aga ikkagi korralikum kui Napoli oma musta liivaga. Ujumas kahjuks ei käinud, selle peale enne ei mõelnud. Ega pärast ei oleks olnud tore soolane ka olla aga see selleks.  Emale meeldis, et tänavad olid puhtad.

Vallone dei Mulini

Kohale jõudes sõitsime liftiga üles linna keskusesse. Linna paiknemine on lahe. Vaatasime üle Vallone dei Mulini e veskite oru. Piazza Tasso taga asuv org on uuristatud kahe jõe poolt. Nelja veski ajalugu ulatub 13. sajandisse. 

Lõhesalat

Lõunaks võtsime Cheri kohvikust lõhesalati, mida nautisime Lauro pargis. Mina maitsesin ära un canneolo ja ema proovis lõpuks una sfogliatella. 

Kõndisime mööda tänavaid, jõudsime veel kõrgemale, kesklinnale avanes kaunis vaade. Tagasi suundudes leidis ema endale sobiva rannakoti. Laeva oodates seisime jalgupidi meres. Oleks tahtnud ujuda.

Apelsinipuu

Enne igat reisi uurin, mida kuskil vaadata/teha. Sorrento oli üks soovitatud sihtkoht, sellest ka valik. Sinna millegipärast tagasi ei tõmba. Vesi oli soe ja sinine, mägine rannajoon, turistinänn, ilus vaade aga ikkagi natuke i g a v. 

Õhtuks, et hajutada hilisemaks plaanitud päeva kilomeetrite hulka, suundusime Napoli tunnelitesse. Napoli Sotterranea on võimalus Napolit kogeda hoopis teisest vaatevinklist, 40 meetri sügavusest maa alt. Pilet 10 eurot. 

Napoli Sotterranea

Natuke rohkem kui tunniga saime põhjaliku ülevaate linna ajaloost. Kreeklaste poolt kaevatud tunnelid, millest hiljem said veehoidlad ja akveduktid, II MS aegsed pommivarjendid ja selleaegsed elutingimused. Linnas kõndides ei mõtle selle pealegi, mis kõik maa alla jääb. Tunnelid on üllatavalt kõrged, laiad, kitsad. Meile sattus väga tore giid, kes rääkis huvitavalt juhtides meid mööda kord valgustatud kord pimedat käes küünlad. Saime läbida 50cm laiuse tunneli, kaaluprobleemidega inimestel on seal raske. Kusjuures linnapildis märkasime üldse väga vähe suurema kaaluga inimesi. See selleks. 

Kui maa-alune retk läbi, näidati meile rooma-aegse teatri säilmeid, mis ei ole majade ehitamist seganud. Teater peidab ennast praeguste majade seintes, lagedes, põrandates. Detaile on igal pool.

Õhtusöögiks mereanni pasta 😊 Kolmas? Trattoria Toledo. 

Sorrento

18th July. We begun our day with a walk to Molo Beverello (less than a kilometre from us) to make our way to Sorrento. The ticket line was already there at 8.30am. We had chosen a boat instead of a train. There were three kilometres to the station 😁

The boat ride took about 45 minutes. Sorrento lays on the Amalfi Coast. Approximately 16400 inhabitants. A popular tourist destination, luring with its tiny shops, cafes, rocky coastline ja glistening water. There is as beach. A stony beach but still nicer than in Napoli with its black sand. Unfortunately we didn`t go swimming. I wish I had thought about that. It wouldn`t have been nice to be salty afterwards but still. My mum liked the clean streets. 

Canneolo

We took a lift up to the centre. We got to see Vallone dei Mulini aka the Valley of the Mills. The valley behind Piazza Tasso was carved by two rivers. The flour mills, built from stone as far back as the 13th century.

We took a salmon salads from Cheri cafe for lunch. I got to taste un canneolo with ricotta and my mum finally ate una sfogliatella. 

Sorrento

We walked in the streets, reaches even higher. There are beautiful views of the bay. Wlaking back my mother found herself a suitable beach bag. While waiting for out departure we just stood in the warm water. I still wish I could have gone swimming there. 

Sorrento

Before each trip I research the place. Sorrento was one of the suggestions to see while in Napoli. For some reason I have no desire to re-visit it. The water was warm and blue, rocky coastline, tourist oriented stuff, beautiful views but still a bit d u l l.

In the evening we headed to Napoli underground. Napoli Sotterranea is an opportunity to look at Napoli from a totally another point of view. 40 metres under the ground. Ticket: 10 euros. 

Napoli Sotterranea

With just over an hour we received a thorough overview of the city`s history. Tunnels dug by the Greeks that became water cisterns and Roman aqueducts and in the previous centry, during WWII these were used as bomb shelters. Walking in streets most people don`t think what is below them, The tunnels are incredibly high, wide, narrow. We had a wonderful guide, who made the hour pass quickly. We got to walk in the darkness holding a candle. We got to walk through a 50cm wide tunnel, I imagine impossible for people with weight problems. As it is, we noticed a very few overweight people in the city. Just a sidenote.

After we finished our underground tour we were shown remains of a Roman theatre that have not got in a way of constructions. The theatre hides itself in the buildings` walls, ceiling, walls. You can see details all around.

Another seafood pasta for dinner 😊 Third? Trattoria Toledo.